PATTERN SPOTLIGHT- THE TITANIA TOTE PATTERN FEATURE part 2

Welcome back to the RLR Creations “Pattern Spotlight”.

I’m Tanya Summers, Creative Director at Little Mate’s Wardrobe and one of your friendly admin on the RLR Creations Sewing Patterns group. In this edition, I am looking forward to show you some more tips and tricks in creating the RLR Creations “Titania Tote” pattern to help you create your very best version of one of my favourite patterns.

 
Bag and Photo by Tanya Summers

Bag and Photo by Tanya Summers

 

Firstly, you will need a copy of the Titania Tote pattern, which is available for purchase on which is available for purchase on rlrcreations.comCraftsy and Etsy.. We had a special discount code for you last week when purchasing the Titania pattern from rlrcreation.com, so click HERE if you need to read last week’s blog.

Last week’s blog had lots of information about and tips on creating the Front Exterior Welt Pocket and preparing and attaching the Strap Connectors and contrast Bottom so click on the link to have a read while you are getting your discount code!

This week’s blog will feature how to make a peek-a-boo feature on the Internal Zip Pocket and also give you some tips and tricks for attaching and top stitching your Top Main Zip.

Let’s get started!!

Making a Peek-a-boo feature on the Internal Zip Pocket

This is a cute way to add a bit of excitement to your interior by using up a leftover scrap fabric!

 
 

Instead of cutting Piece H – Interior Pocket Lining, you will need to cut 2 separate pieces of fabric 10½” wide x 8” high, I have cut one plain to match the interior lining and one ‘picture piece’ to use as my focal point.

 
 

Using your non-picture piece, place it right side down in the centre of your interior main piece and follow the instructions for creating a zipper pocket on pages 13-14, stopping after you complete Step 12 ‘adding the zipper’.

 
 

 

Once you have added your zipper, your interior main piece will look like this on the wrong side.

 

Lay your picture pocket lining piece on top of the non-picture piece right sides together. Pin or clip around the sides and top of the pieces (but NOT the bottom), then sew around the 3 sides using a 3/8” seam allowance.

 

Remember to fold your interior main piece out of the way while you sew the two pocket pieces together.

 

After you have sewn the three sides, the bottom of your pocket will remain open or unsewn. This is the nifty hole we will use to turn our bag right side out!!

Peek-a-boo! View from the front with our zip open. Perfect!

 
 

Attaching and Top Stitching your Top Main Zip

Note: You will need to have completed steps 1-7 on page 16 to prepare your zip.

Starting on Page 17 of your instructions, we will take our top zipper (with the cool zipper ends) and lay it along the top of the Exterior Main Piece right side of the zipper down. I like to add a bit of Sewline glue here as it holds the zip snug between the two layers without shifting.

While the glue dries I like to hold it with clips to keep it steady. When you get to the 1” mark you made at the end, gently move the end of the zip down and out of the way of the ¼” seam allowance.

After sewing your zip, press open your seam. This will be a little bit trickier with the second side as the Exterior is one piece. I like to iron it in 2 stages. First with the lining folded open…

Then open the zipper, fold the lining under and iron the exterior away from the zip tape and press.

 

 

 

Don’t forget the little bits on the outer edges!!

45.jpg

There are 2 ways to top stitch the second side. Both will involve a bit of manipulating to get to from the outer edges in to the middle, and may depend on what your machine looks like. My machine has a removable tray table, but if your machine doesn’t then your will need to do it this way.

 

Keeping the external sides together move the already topstitched side out of the way. At the start you will need to lift it that side up and around to help move the zipper tab out of the way (to the right as you look at my photo)

The second way is slightly easier, if you can remove your tray table and expose the free-arm of your machine. Turn the bag right side out so the exterior fabric is on the outside. Again move the tab to the right so that is out of the way.

Once your zip is top stitched, continue following the instructions from the “Finishing” section on Page 18 to complete your Titania Tote.

 

Please note these tips and tricks used in this article are the ways that I have found to be a quick and easy way to complete my Titania Tote. They are by no means the only way to do it. If you have a tip or trick that you would like to share with us, please join our RLR Creations Sewing Patterns Group and post your tips, and of course, share your creations with us in there!!

https://www.facebook.com/groups/RLRCreationsSewingPatterns/.

We all love to see the beautiful bags that are made using the Titania Tote pattern. If you missed the discount code last week and would really like to say GDAY-TITANIA and purchase this fantastic pattern, then you will need the GDAY-TITANIA code word, before heading to the rlrcreations.com website.

Now to the next big decisions! What size (handbag or tote) will you choose? Which fabric will be chosen? I would love to see your fabric previews as you start your project!!

 

Until next time, keep creating!!

If you would like to learn more about the extremely talented Tanya Summers and see the amazing  things she creates hop over to her facebook page at Little Mate's Wardrobe and take a moment to view her fabulous bags at her Etsy Store HERE!

PATTERN SPOTLIGHT- THE TITANIA TOTE PATTERN FEATURE

Welcome back to the RLR Creations “Pattern Spotlight”

I’m Tanya Summers, Creative Director at Little Mate’s Wardrobe and one of your friendly admin on the RLR Creations Sewing Patterns group. In this edition, I am looking forward to showing you some tips and tricks in creating the RLR Creations “Titania Tote” pattern to help you create your very best version of one of my favourite patterns. 

Bag and Photo by Tanya Summers of Little Mate's Wardrobe

Bag and Photo by Tanya Summers of Little Mate's Wardrobe

Firstly, you will need a copy of the Titania Tote pattern, which is available for purchase on rlrcreations.com, Craftsy and Etsy.

** Surprise!!** For our valued readers of this blog, we will have a special discount code for you to use on rlrcreations.com, so keep your eyes peeled.

So, gather your fabric, interfacing and fancy O-Ring bling (and a cuppa) and let’s go through the pattern.

I will focus on 4 main parts of the pattern.

The first 2 sections I will cover this week:

  • Front Exterior Welt Pocket 
  • Strap Connectors and contrast Bottom 

Then next week we will go through:

  • Making a Peek-a-boo feature on the Internal Zip Pocket
  • Attaching and Top Stitching your Top Main Zip

Front Exterior Welt Pocket

After interfacing the pattern, the next step calls for you to do your Welt Pocket. For many of you (as it was for me when I tested the pattern) this will be the first time you’ve attempted one of these. Trust me when I say it is just as easy as a zip pocket.

Tip #1 – For the fussy cutters –

When I fussy cut my pieces I wanted to keep intact the head nearest the top including her hair. Unfortunately what would happen then is the chin of the face was going to be cut off with the welt pocket. So I drew the welt pocket box a teeny bit down to accommodate the full face (and moved the lining on the other side down the same amount to match). As you can see below, the face is visible through the interfacing and allowed me to move it down to suit me.

 

Sew and clip as per the instructions, keeping in mind that the closer you can snip into the corner (without cutting the stitches) the squarer your corners will look.

 

 

 

 

Next, when turning the pocket lining through, I like to use a strip of water soluble fabric glue to hold the fabric to keep even pressure on the crease instead of relying on pins.

After sewing your two welt pieces together, as per the instructions, and pressing open, run a strip of glue either side of the opening and lay your welt pocket over the opening, centering the seam. I like to roll mine down from one side so I can eyeball the seam into the centre as I go. 

 
 

Check it looks correct from the front…

If you’ve come this far in, you deserve a break. Like the look of the pattern? Head over to rlrcreations.com, add the Titania Tote to your cart, enter the codeword GDAY-TITANIA and receive 25% off the Titania pattern! (valid til March 31st 2017).

Okay, phew! Enough of that excitement! Where were we? Yes, that’s right, stitch around the outside of our welt pocket opening to hold the pocket welts in place.

You can choose at this point whether to unpick the stitches holding the welts together (at step 6 on page 6) or do as I do and wait til the end when you turn your bag right side out to do it as one of your finishing touches.
 
 

To sew the pocket lining onto the welt pocket is a little bit different from the usual zip pocket, but once you’ve seen how to do it, it’s a simple process. Align the bottom of your pocket liner piece to the bottom of the welt pieces.

 

Sew along that edge by moving the Main Panel piece out of the way.

 

 

 

Press the seam open so that the pocket lining sits flat.

Fold the pocket lining piece up so that the top short edge aligns with the top of the welts. Pin together without catching the other layers.

 

 

Sew along the top edge, keeping the main piece up and out of the way. The next step is to sew the sides shut and we will use the same process of folding the main piece out of the way to sew the side seams of the pocket.

Your main piece will now look like this from the wrong side.

To create the slit in the fleece, use the measurements provided in step 1 of “Adding fleece to Exterior Main Panels” on Page 8 of your instructions. As you can see on mine, I use a quilting ruler to measure down the top measurement and use pins to measure in from the side. Then you can quickly create a cut along your ruler line keeping between those pins (do not cut over pins as your rotary cutter will get a blunt spot there and no longer cut properly).

 

Pull the lining through slit you just created in the fleece, making sure that it sits flat.

 

Iron the fleece to the main piece to hold it in place


Strap Connectors and Contrast Bottom

Firstly pin or clip your pocket up and out of the way.

 
 

Prepare your strap connectors by drawing a line longways down the centre of the piece. (*Please note this is slightly different to the instructions in the pattern, but will give you the same end result).

 

 

 

 

 

 

Next run a strip of temporary fabric glue or double sided tape down the centre of the line you just made and fold the long sides in to meet at the centre. I like to use double sided tape for vinyl especially as it holds better than glue, but just be aware that certain tapes may ‘gum up’ or put a stick residue on your needle. If that happens carefully clean the needle with an alcohol wipe to remove the adhesive. Fold the strap connector through your o-ring and stitch to secure as per instructions. (I like to do my straps using the same method (draw line in centre, fold to centre, use tape to hold) then fold them in half longways again to get 4 thickness of vinyl.)

 
 

Use your quilting rulers as a handy guide when positioning your strap connectors. As my rings as thicker, I make my top measurement 1¾” instead of 2”, but that is just my personal preference and will not effect functionality. Check your side measurement is correct for the size you are making (ie 3” for the small size and 4” for the large size)

 
 

Once your strap connector is in the right place, use a little bit of Sewline Glue or double sided tape to hold the strap connector in position temporarily while you stitch it in place. If you are having trouble with skipped stitches or your needle isn’t moving, try using a ‘height adjustor’ or even folded vinyl of the same height under the back of your foot to make it level again.

 
 

 

If you have thick rings like these you may also use it on the opposite side of the foot to keep even pressure on each side as well as being level front to back.

**Please note that I will be using rivets to strengthen my strap connector attachment instead of using the strengthening X-box stitching as described in the pattern. If you do not intend on using rivets, please follow the instructions in the pattern to on how to sew the stitch box (as detailed on Page 11).

Use your rulers again to position your second strap connector and sew it again like the first. Repeat the process for the opposite Exterior Main Panel, then join the front and back panels as per the instructions in Section “Adding the Bottom Accent on page 12.

 
 

For my bottom contrast panel, my personal preference is to fold the edge rather than having the vinyl backing showing. When cutting my contrast piece in vinyl I will use the ‘cut on this line for fabric’ option. I measure down ¾” and draw a line and add my double sided tape to the outside of that line.

 
 

I then fold the edge to meet that folded line and you have a perfect 3/8” fold. (I use 3/8” as opposed to the ¼” stated as vinyl tends to be a bit harder to get a good fold on only ¼”). Lay your overlay on top of your joined Exterior front and back Main Panels and sew as per the instructions in the “Adding the Bottom Accent” section on page 13

 
 

Turn your piece over and you will see why we need to pin the external welt pocket lining up and out of the way. Phew!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Yay!! That’s the outside done!!  (Aren’t you glad you pinned up that pocket!!)

Check back in next week-

To see how to make a peekaboo pocket for the interior…

 
 

…and some tips and tricks for to attaching and top stitching your top main zip

 
 

As always please share your creations on https://www.facebook.com/groups/RLRCreationsSewingPatterns/. We all love to see the beautiful bags that are made using the Titania Tote pattern (and of course any other RLR Creations patterns). So grab your discount code (ok I’ll be nice and put the GDAY-TITANIA discount code here too), head to the rlrcreations.com website and get creating on your very own Titania Tote, in either handbag or tote size.

 

*Please note these tips and tricks used in this article are the ways that I have found to be a quick and easy way to complete my Titania Tote. They are by no means the only way to do it. If you have a tip or trick that you would like to share with us, please join our RLR Creations Sewing Patterns Group and post your tips in there!!

 

See ya next week!!

If you would like to learn more about the extremely talented Tanya Summers and see the amazing  things she creates hop over to her facebook page at Little Mate's Wardrobe and take a moment to view her fabulous bags at her Etsy Store HERE!

PATTERN SPOTLIGHT- THE LIMELIGHT ACCORDIAN WALLET FEATURE PART 3

It's time for the third Installment of the RLR Creations “Pattern Spotlight”

This month we will be focusing on the Limelight Wallet, which is available for purchase HERE or for Craftsy users you can find it HERE.

This week is all about Paper Piecing!

Basically the art of paper piecing is a fancy way to re-purpose those small scrap sized pieces of fabric and use them to ‘colour-in’ a design or shape. This creating this simple heart shape design on the flap of your Limelight wallet is as easy as counting to 11. 

Organizing the fabrics you want to use.

There is no right or wrong way to arrange your fabrics. The pattern (available here) shows that you can use 3 colors (shown as red for the heart, grey for the angle section and white for the background) or you can choose to only do 2 (heart and background) as I’ve done in my example. Your scrap pieces should be large enough to cover the area they are assigned for PLUS a 1/in (6mm) seam allowance around the outside. More tips on that later.

So let’s get started!

Download your Paper Piecing Pattern HERE!

Step 1. Take your heart coloured fabric and using a temporary glue like a Sewline Glue Stick, apply a small amount to the wrong side of the fabric. Hold your design up to the light and, using the shadow of your piece of fabric, position it over the Number 1 section with the wrong side of the fabric glued to the WRONG SIDE of your pattern paper. Remember to allow at least a ¼” seam allowance on each side.

3.jpg

Step 2. Turn your pattern piece RIGHT SIDE up so you can see the numbers. Where the Number 1 and Number 2 sections meet (the 1-2 line), draw over the intersecting lines. I like to use a Frixion Ball Point Pen as it makes a nice folding line and erases with my iron)

 

Step 3. Using the indent from your pen line, fold along the 1-2 line. Trim the fabric to ¼” past this fold.

5.jpg

Step 4. Take a piece of your “Angle Section” fabric (color coded grey on the pattern) and place it RIGHT SIDE UP. Place the Paper Piece pattern and the first section of heart on top of the Angle Section fabric so that the 2 pieces of fabric are right sides together.

 

 

 

 

 

Step 5. Keeping the edges of the 2 fabrics aligned, gently fold the paper back so you can see the numbers. Sew along the line between Numbers 1 and 2 with a short stitch length (I like to use about a 1.5 stitch length) remembering to reverse at the beginning and end to secure the stitches.

 

Step 6.  Fold the Angle Section fabric back to expose the right side and gently press the seam

 
7.jpg

Step 7. Turn your pattern piece over, and start the process again (from Step 2 to Step 6) with the next number. Remember to use the line that joins to the lower numbers (so the line between 3 and 1, then the line between 4 and 3/1) See? I told you it was as easy as counting to 11!

When you are finished with the last seam, trim around the outside of the pattern piece and then continue as per the Limelight instructions. (you could even add piping at this step by using last week’s tutorial!)

 
 

It looks so good, even the gnomes come out of the woodwork to see!!

 
 

Please remember to share your creations on the RLR Creations Sewing Patterns Group (https://www.facebook.com/groups/RLRCreationsSewingPatterns/) page on Facebook. We would love to see your colour combinations with the paper piecing pattern and on all your creative interpretations on the Limelight Wallet pattern.  

Next time, I will be looking at putting a twist on a different RLR Creations pattern… Which one would you like to see?

PATTERN SPOTLIGHT- THE LIMELIGHT ACCORDIAN WALLET FEATURE PART 2

It's time for the second Installment of the RLR Creations “Pattern Spotlight”

This month we will be focusing on the Limelight Wallet, which is available for purchase HERE or for Craftsy users you can find it HERE.

This month we will be focusing on the Limelight Wallet, which is available for purchase HERE or for Craftsy users you can find it HERE.

WEEK 2 – This week the extremely talented Tanya will focus on Fussy Cutting and attaching a Wrist Strap...Plus working with Piping on your Limelight Flap!

Fussy Cutting

Fussy Cutting is the art of perfect pattern placement. To help you with perfecting your pattern placement on the flap of the Limelight we have created the “Fussy Cut Flap’ guide pattern piece just for you! Just cut out the window and voila! Instantly you can see what will be seen on the front of your wallet. No missing heads anymore!

To download your copy of the Fussy Cutting Guide click HERE

Click on the image to download the printable template

Click on the image to download the printable template

Cut out the hole on the Fussy Cutting Guide and place it over your fabric until you are happy with the section you can see.

Place your Flap Piece F on top of the guide so it lines up with the edges of the Fussy Cutting Guide

Remove the Fussy Cutting guide by holding your fingers in the middle of the Flap Piece F and gently pull the Fussy Cutting Guide Piece up and over.

Cut around Flap Piece F as you would normally. 

Bonus Feature- Using Piping!

Piping can be a bit scary at first, often because it can be difficult to get right on your first attempt. Hopefully with some of my hot tips you will be able to enjoy sewing with piping and add it more to your projects!

Choosing your piping colours.

Piping is a great way to highlight of emphasis colours in a fabric pattern. When choosing piping I like to place it around the edge so you can get the full effect. 

Hop tip #1

Sewline Glue is a water soluable tacking glue that I love using for pretty much everything! It will hold zips straight, keep your clear vinyl for your ID card pocket steady without pins and is great for holding piping too.

Please note on this picture that my piping is not level with the edge. I have moved it in until the existing stitching of the pre-made piping is approximately 5/8” in from the edge (this is the seam allowance plus the width of the piping, so at the end the overall width of the flap including the piped edge remains at approx 5” as per the original. 
 
 

After glue basting the piping in place the next step is to sew baste it. When sew basting I like to sew either on the existing stitches of the piping or slightly to the cord side of the stitches. 

11.jpg

I use the sew basting to create a line, so whenI sew the interior and exterior flap pieces together I can sew slighting to the inside of this line to keep the piping tight and reduce the need to go back and re-sew it multiple times.

12.jpg

Adding a Wrist Strap

Many have been asking for wrist straps to make the Limelight Wallet hands free, especially when your cute dress or favourite shorts don’t have a pocket! Adding the wrist strap is really easy and looks great, and as a bonus you can add your keys to the wrist strap like a matching key fob!

To start with you will need to choose your hardware:

1 - 1” Swivel Snap Hook

1 - 5/8” (15mm) D-Ring – Please note if you want to use a ½” ring that is also fine just remember to adjust the width of your Connector tab accordingly (so ½” D-Ring would need 1 x Main Fabric 3” x 2”, 1 x Interfacing 3” x 1”)

Then you will need to cut the following EXTRA pieces:

Connector Tab – 1- Main Fabric 3” x 2 ½”

Connector Tab Interfacing – 1 - Interfacing (SF101) 3” x 1 ¼”

Wrist Strap – Cut 1 x Main Fabric and 1- Interfacing (SF101) 17.5” x 4”

Add the interfacing to the main pieces, making sure that the interfacing on the connector tab is centred width-wise on the main piece 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fold both the Wrist Strap piece and the Connector piece in half lengthwise (so parallel to the longest edge). Press to get a nice crisp fold then open up again. Fold in the long raw edges so they meet on that nice crisp fold line. Press, then refold your original fold to hide the raw edges. 

Connector Piece:

Wrist Strap

18.jpg

Completing the Connector Piece-

Topstitch the long sides of the Connector piece approximately 1/8” from the edge. Place the connector piece through the D-Ring and fold in half to secure the D-Ring. Sew as close to the D-Ring as you can to stop it from moving around.

 

Completing the Wrist Strap Piece-

 

Place the Wrist Strap piece through the Swivel Hook (this style is my favourite and is available in Australia through Handbag Hardware Australia) and fold in half to match the short ends. Now this is where it gets tricky so I’ve included lots of pictures! 

 

Step 1:

Step 1 – Place the straps in front of you with the swivel hook at the bottom of the loop. 

 

Step 2: 

Step 2 – Twist the front end of the strap piece 90 degrees to the right (so from 6 o’clock to 3 o’clock). 

 

Step 3:

Without changing the angle open up both the front and back pieces so the right sides are facing and the 2 pieces are at right angles to each other. Pin together. Draw a 45 degree angle line from the bottom left corner up to the top right. This will be your sewing line. 

Step 4:

Once you have sewn this line open up the loop to see if it now creates a circle. 

If it does you can now trim off the triangle piece about ¼” away from the seam. 

Step 5:

Press the seam open. Refold the raw edges into the middle and you will have a perfect loop. Sew around each side about 1/8” away from the edge. 

Step 6:

Sew around each side about 1/8” away from the edge.

Step 7: 

Make a fold at one end to secure your swivel hook and sew as close to the Swivel Hook as you can or add a rivet if you prefer. Your Wrist Strap is now complete.

Adding the connector to your Limelight Wallet

After you have completed step 3 on page 6, take you flap piece and place it exterior side up. Measure in ¾” from the side (I’m right handed so I put mine on the left) and 1” down from the raw top edge. Baste stitch about ¼ inch in from the raw edge.

 

And that’s it!! You can now complete your wallet as per the instructions. Please remember to share your creations on the RLR Creations Sewing Patterns Group (https://www.facebook.com/groups/RLRCreationsSewingPatterns/) page on Facebook. We would love to see your unique twists on this versatile pattern

 

Next week, I will be sharing with you an exclusive Paper Piecing design designed by myself, made especially for the Limelight Wallet flap. Its probably one of the easiest paper piece designs, which makes it great for beginners to paper piecing, but it also makes a great quick embellishment to your next Limelight Wallet.

If you would like to learn more about the extremely talented Tanya Summers and see the amazing  things she creates hop over to her facebook page at Little Mate's Wardrobe and take a moment to view her fabulous bags at her Etsy Store HERE!

Pattern Spotlight- The Limelight Accordian Wallet Feature Part 1

Welcome to the first Installement of the RLR Creations “Pattern Spotlight”

I’m Tanya Summers, Creative Director at Little Mate’s Wardrobe and one of your friendly admin on the RLR Creations Sewing Patterns group. Over the next few months I will be showing you cool features of some of the RLR Creations patterns and giving you a few ideas on how to make your creations unique to you. This is where you will be able to come for inspiration and get some hot tips to help you create your very best!

Photos and Limelight Wallets by Tanya Summers of Little Mate's Wardrobe

This month we will be focusing on the Limelight Wallet, which is available for purchase HERE or for Craftsy users you can find it HERE.

Each week, I will be showing you some sewn examples of different fabrics, ideas to create a magical one-off piece, and even give you a free, yes FREE, and easy paper piecing pattern specifically designed for the Limelight Wallet. Along the way, I will show you some tips and tricks to help you perfectly place your fabric on the flap, add piping to give it a pop of color and much, much more. 

So let’s get started…

1.jpg
 

Week 1 – Getting inspired by your favourite designer to create a memorable flap design!

As the Limelight Wallet has a large flap (in proportion to its overall size) this is the ideal spot to make a creative impact! For my first example I have used ‘reverse appliqué’ to create a design on my first example. I have used cork because, like leather, it is resistant to fraying which is important when we cut a raw edge for things such as appliqué.

My theme for this wallet was Tula Pink, one of my favourite fabric designers, largely due to her fabulous and creative use of animals in her designs. 

A Quick Guide to Reverse Applique

Draw your design on some tracing paper, then turn it over and transfer it on the back of your cork/leather. I like to use lead pencil for this. 

Now that your design is clearly copied onto the reverse, you can start to cut very carefully along the line. 

Pick your fabric colors for under the cutout and then cut out small pieces large enough to cover the hole with enough room to stitch around the outside.

Once you have stitched around each shape you can then add other stitches to join the shapes together, in my case adding the stems for the flowers.

 Now that your Exterior Flap piece is complete, continue to create your flap as per the Limelight instructions.

Week 1: Bonus Add-on: Double Card Pockets

Who doesn't love more card Pockets? The creative Tanya Summers has added a double row of card pockets to the Limelight wallet to give you even more space to store all of your cards. Follow along as she shows you how simple this is to do!

My card pockets on this wallet vary from the main pattern. I have added a set of 3 card pockets to the inside front of the wallet, in addition to the 3 on the inside back and the hidden pocket behind the card pockets at the back.

Rather than cut the Piece C Card Pocket Panel that is included in the pattern you will need to cut these two pieces:

The cutting list for the new card pockets is:

  • Card Pocket A – 18 ¾” x 4 ⅞”, cut 1 Lining Fabric and 1 Interfacing
  • Card Pocket B – 15 1/4 “ x 4 ⅞”, cut 1 Lining Fabric and 1 Interfacing

Fuse the interfacing to the wrong side of the Fabric Pieces then create your folds as follow: 

Card Pocket A:

Measure down from the top of the fabric piece in the following increments:

4”, 2 ¼”, 1 ¾”,  2 ¼”, 1 ¾”,  2 ¼”, 1 ¾”,  2 ¾”.

Fold the first line, from the top, wrong sides together, the second line right sides together, the third fold wrong sides together and so on, until all the lines are folded. Topstitch the tops of all the folds as directed on Page 13, step 2 in the pattern. 

Now, with your Card Pocket A right side up, fold the topstitched edges up, towards the top of the Card Panel until you have created 3 card pockets. The top card pocket top will sit evenly on top of your last top stitched line. Pin in place along the sides.

Card Pocket B:

Measure down from the top of the fabric piece in the following increments:

½”, 2 ¼”, 1 ¾”,  2 ¼”, 1 ¾”,  2 ¼”, 1 ¾”,  2 ¾”.

Fold the first line wrong sides together, the second line right sides together, the third fold wrong sides together and so on, until all the lines are folded. DO NOT topstitch the top fold (with the ½” folded behind, but DO topstitch the tops of folds 2, 3, 4.).

Now, with your Card Pocket B right side up, fold the topstitched edges up, towards the top of the Card Panel until you have created 3 card pockets. The top 1/2", that you did not topstitch will be folded wrong sides together and will create the bottom of your pocket. 

Join the bottoms of Card Pockets A and Card Pocket B together with a ½” seam. CHECK that your card piece fits nicely along Main Piece A (See page 15/16 of the instructions for the location). It should be 7 ½” long. If your piece fits well, iron the middle seam flat and topstitch on either side of the seam. Baste down both long sides as close to the edge as possible. Continue from Page 16, step 3, topstitching to the Main Panel Piece A.

And that’s it!! Everything else is finished as per the pattern. Please share your creations on https://www.facebook.com/groups/RLRCreationsSewingPatterns/. I would love to see what reverse applique, traditional applique or other great ideas you have for your Limelight Wallet.

Next week, I will be discussing Fussy Cutting (how to get your pictures centred perfectly on the front flap) and how to add a wrist strap! 

If you would like to learn more about the extremely talented Tanya Summers and see the amazing  things she creates hop over to her facebook page at Little Mate's Wardrobe and take a moment to view her fabulous bags at her Etsy Store HERE!